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Tackle and Gear
Fishing for steelhead
is generally done with either a spinning or fly outfit. Regardless
of the type of rod and reel used, there are other gear requirements.
A good pair of waders is essential. Chest waders give greater
versatility and allow you to reach deeper areas that might exceed
the height of hip boots. In times of low flow, or on the smaller
creeks, hip boots will be adequate. In the colder months, insulated
waders are essential. Many anglers opt for neoprene chest waders.
Many anglers use
boots with spikes for traction. Although "corkers" are not as
popular on these tributaries as they are in other places, they
are sometimes seen. In the early season, the creek bottoms can
still be algae covered and very slippery. Even after the algae
is gone as the water gets colder, the shale bottom can be quite
slippery. If you are not sure of foot, spikes and/or a wading
staff are a good idea. Felt-sole waders generally work better
here than rubber-soled boots (except when there is snow on the ground).
Whether to carry
a net on the creeks seems to be a point of debate. Many anglers
release all the steelhead they catch, and often they carry no
net. Others new to the sport carry can be seen carrying a traditional
trout net that will have a very difficult time holding an 8 pound
steelhead. Steelhead can be "beached" in many places, and therefore
taken without a net. If you want to be sure you land the fish
you hooked, and don't mind carrying a net with you along the creeks,
a net is a good idea.
Like any trout fishing,
a good fishing vest or chest pack is a must. In the winter, gloves are also
necessary. When the water is not too high or cloudy, steelhead
can be "hunted" or spotted in places in the creeks. A pair of
polarized sunglasses is another necessity for spotting steelhead
in the creek.
If you plan to keep
any fish, a good stringer is necessary. If you fish with skein,
a scissors works well to cut the eggs.
A well-stocked fishing vest
contains the following: either fly boxes or a small plano tackle
compartment with hooks, small pinch-on sinkers and assorted lures, slip-on bobbers
or floats, clippers, pocket knife, hemostats (for hook removal
and opening split shot on really cold days), spare spools with
different test line for different conditions, leaders and tippet,
various baits, lighter and compass (as a precautionary holdover
from hunting), stringer, stream thermometer and bandages.
Spinning Gear
Line and Hooks
Spinning gear still
seems to predominate on the tributaries, although fly fishing has become increasing popular. In normal conditions,
six pound line works well. Many experienced anglers use four or
even two pound line, especially in clear water conditions. Use
some sense when selecting line. You will have a difficult time
stopping an eight pound fish on two pound line once the fish gets
into fast water and heads for the lake. Likewise, if you are fishing
in a crowded area, your fellow anglers will not be pleased as
you take 20 minutes to try to land a fish on ultra-light line.
No particular type
of hook is needed. However, the traditional salmon or steelhead
hook, which is a strong, short shank, eye-up hook, is often used.
The hook size depends on the steam conditions and the type of
bait used. A size 6 should be big enough under any circumstances.
A size 10 or 12 will get more strikes in clear conditions, but
landing a fish with this size hook can be challenging. Experienced
anglers, who don't mind trading more hook-ups for fewer landed
fish, will fish with hooks in size 14 or smaller.
Rod
The common rod for
spin fishing is an extra-long (e.g., nine foot) light rod designed
for four to eight pound line. The "noodle rod", which is very
long (often 10 feet or more), and extremely soft for fishing very
light line (e.g., two pound test), is becoming less popular on
the streams. Most steelhead fishing in the creeks is drift fishing.
For drift fishing, many prefer a short butt-end to the rod. A
longer rod allows you to keep more of the line off the water to
get a better drift, and the short butt is easier to handle. Steelhead
can take a hook very lightly, so a sensitive rod is helpful. On
the other hand, they can be aggressive fighters, and a rod with
some backbone is also helpful. Local tackle shops can recommend
a good rod for this type of fishing.
Using a spinning
reel on a fly rod is not uncommon. The fly rod is sensitive, long,
and has a short butt.
Reel
No particular size
of reel is essential. As long as the spool has the capacity for
enough line to play the fish and a drag strong and smooth enough
to withstand the stress, the reel should work. Large reels used
on the lake are overkill. Even with six pound line, a spinning
reel with a smooth drag is essential. (Front drags seem to be
smoother). I use a 2000 series Shimano front-drag reel, and it
works well for this type of fishing.
Fly Gear
Line and Leader
Floating line is
the norm. The creeks are typically too shallow for any type of
sinking line. Be sure to use
sufficient backing to be able to play the fish.
Leader and tippet
sizes depend, as always, to a large degree on what flies you are
using. Many
anglers tie their own leaders. Since you are often fishing with
split shot, this is not finesse fly fishing and it is not necessary
to have a perfectly tapered leader. Similarly, the leader need
not be too long for this type of fishing, unless you are fishing
in very clear water with a very small fly. Under normal conditions,
a leader and tippet combination that is not longer than the rod
itself should work. A longer leader and tippet combination on
the small creeks will be too long and difficult to handle. Many
anglers tie in at least one length of high visibility line in
the upper end of the leader.
Not surprisingly,
small flies (e.g., size 12 or smaller) should be fished with a
light tippet. 5x and lighter tippet will have difficulty landing
steelhead. 3x and 4x tippet is popular.
Whether fluorocarbon
tippet actually helps produce strikes remains a point of dispute
in this area.
Rod
Anglers typically
use rods from 5 to 8 weight. A 5 weight rod will not give you
much backbone to land a large steelhead, and an 8 weight rod has
more than enough backbone. Many agree a 7 weight, 9 foot rod is ideal.
Reel
Any respectable
fly reel should work. An smooth disk drag is certainly helpful
for playing a larger fish. Generally a reel which accommodates
a 6 to 8 weight line will work well. Large arbor reels have become common.
Lures and Bait
Common baits used
for spin fishing include the following:
- Live or salted
minnows
- Power bait or
power nuggets
- Egg sacks (of
either salmon or steelhead eggs)
- Skein (of either
salmon or steelhead eggs)
- Nightcrawlers
(usually not used during the winter)
- Single salmon
eggs (the variety in the small jars in oil, or the loose eggs
found at the bait shops)
- Grubs (a.k.a.
maggots)
Lures are not too
commonly used in the creeks. However, spinners can work. Occasionally
a small casting spoon (like a Little Cleo) will work, particularly near
the mouths. Large lures of the variety used in the lake a far
too big for use in the creeks, and will only serve to agitate
or snag whatever fish might be there.
The "MiniFoo" jig,
which is a dressed, painted leadhead, is popular. It is commonly
tipped with a grub and fished below a float.
The two most common
flies are the Glo-Bug (imitates a salmon egg; tied with Glo-Bug
yarn) and the sucker spawn (imitates sucker eggs; tied with angora yarn). The popular flies are available at FishUSA.com, the sponsor of this site, or at the local bait
shops.
For fly patterns, check
the Recipes
page on this site.
Fishing Techniques
Steelhead fishing
in these tributaries is heavily dependent on the water flow.
During or just after
a good run, the fish may be about anywhere - in the pools, in
the riffles, in deep water and in shallow. If there has been no
recent run, the fish will tend to be in the pools or deeper water
(unless they are spawning, in which case they may be in the riffles).
When the water is very low and clear, typically the fish will
be only in the pools. Steelhead are a trout - they tend to be
in the same places in a stream where other trout would be found.
Most fishing for
steelhead is drift fishing. The common method is to cast across
and up the stream, and let the line drift naturally down stream.
Steelhead are almost always near or on the bottom. If the hook
is fished near the surface, you have little chance of getting
a strike.
A typical spinning
rig without a float includes a single hook tied directly to the
line, with several split shot about 8-12 inches above the hook.
Use enough weight to get the line down so you can occasionally
feel the bottom, but not so much weight that you keep getting
hung-up on the stream bottom. Carrying split shot in size BB,
3/0 and 5/0 should cover all conditions.
Another common rig
is to use a small float above the hook. This works well in the
deeper pools, and avoids losing so much tackle on the stream bottom.
Use the smallest float and least weight you can get away with.
Fly fishing techniques
are usually quite similar. Few steelhead are taken with dry flies,
especially as the water gets colder. Normally some weight is needed
to get the fly down. Either a weighted fly or split shot is used.
Many fly fishermen also use a float or strike indicator.
Steelhead can strike
lightly and quickly. However, if you hook up an 8 pound fish,
you will certainly know it. Landing an 8 pound steelhead is not
the same as landing a 12 ounce brook trout. Many novice anglers
loose many fish they hook. The two most common reasons the fish
are lost are (1) the drag is set too tight or does not work smoothly,
and (2) the angler tries to "muscle in" the fish. In either case,
the fish is lost either because the hook is pulled out of the
fish's mouth or the line breaks. The drag should be set just tight
enough to be sure you can set the hook. Once the fish is on, you
can always tighten the drag. If the drag is too tight to start
with, you will probably lose the fish. Larger fish cannot be "muscled
in." Use your drag, let the bend of the rod work for you, and
play the fish until it tires and you can work the fish toward
you. A steelhead will be difficult to land until it is ready,
no matter what you want to do.
If you plan to release
the fish, hemostats work well for releasing the hook without having
to handle the fish at all. If you bring a net, remember that a
small trout landing net may have a hard time holding a large steelhead.
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