|
|
Lake Erie Charter Captain Dave Adams of D & D Charters answers questions and provides tips and insights into fishing the region.
If you would like to Ask the Captain a question, please click HERE.
January 25, 2003
A towing question:
I would appreciate hearing about vehicle (transmission) durability while towing boats. I have experienced transmission problems with both of the last two new vehicles.
My most recent vehicle, a Ford Explorer, Model year 2002, 4x4, 4.6L V8, towing package, 3.73 rear end -- 3rd gear gone after 10 months and 26,000 total miles. Boat was towed 3,400 miles. Previous vehicle was a 1999 Dodge Durango 4x4, 5.2L V8. Transmission was completely gone while towing boat home from a fishing trip.
The dealers swear the problems have nothing to do with trailing the boat. I am skeptical. These vehicles are rated to tow three times my boat weight, it weighs just under 2,500 lbs. I always tow with the overdrive turned off.
It seems to me that they simply fall far short of the capacity and durability claims.
Captain Dave's Response:
Dear Boat Hauler,
It more fun to spend money on fishing gear than a transmission overhaul.
In my "other" life, I have spent 26 years in the car business. Part as a mechanic, including overhauling transmissions, and currently as a service manager at a Chevrolet dealership. From a technician's standpoint: "Any automobile or truck can tow a boat if properly rigged and cared for."
For example - although not recommended - I towed a 16 foot fiberglass Sea Raider with a 1985 Chevrolet Citation equipped with a four cylinder 2.5 engine. It was an ugly car that could barely reach the speed limit with a boat in tow. But with an external transmission oil cooler and synthetic motor oil it made many trips to Lake Erie and Lake Ontario. It was graciously retired and given to a college student: he put another 50,000 miles on it.
By reducing the heat of the transmission and allowing the transmission to work, it extended the vehicle life.
All new vehicles have what they call a TCC solenoid, which locks up the torque converter at highway speeds. This not-so "brilliant" piece of engineering was invented back in the 70's as a way to increase fuel economy. Once the vehicle hits, say 52 MPH, it locks the converter and engine RPM drops and stays steady. This is great unless you are towing. Because the drop in RPM also increases heat. And heat is what damages transmissions.
A transmission cools best when RPMs are varied, as does the engine.
Most technicians recommend towing in regular 'D' (drive) and never in 'OD' (overdrive). Let the transmission shift, don't be alarmed by the constant shifting. If you feel the engine is straining, downshift into second. Most important, invest in a "good" aftermarket transmission oil cooler. Don't be fooled by the manufacture's statement that their vehicle is equipped with an external cooler or towing package. When your vehicle was built, it was built for hauling passengers, not boats.
If you tow more than 1,000 miles a year, change the transmission fluid, filter, and "flush" the lines every 15,000 miles. Most car repair facilities have a line flush machine and the total cost is around $150, which is much less than a transmission replacement. If you are special ordering your vehicle, order a 4:10 rear axle. Fuel economy will be less, but the transmission and engine will thank you.
A few other technician's tips: if you tow long distances, think about synthetics for both the engine and axles because synthetic oils are not affected by heat. A true (not blend) synthetic oil will double your engine life. Mobil One engine oil is best. It still does get dirty, so changes are needed every 3,000 miles. Check the front and rear axle fluid every oil change. And change the axle fluids every 30,000 miles. On your next change, ask for synthetic axle fluid.
Good Fishing and Towing,
Capt. Dave Adams
Dave Adams is an author and professional charter captain who operates D & D Charters on the Pennsylvania waters of Lake Erie.
|
|
